Lake Chapala

Yesterday Juan Carlos took me to Lake Chapala, the largest lake in Mexico and about 30 minutes from Guadalajara. We ate at an Argentinean restaurant where we encountered an old hippie (see photo). In fact, Ajijic, where we stopped, has a lot of old Americans. It's a fun town and I want to go back and spend a weekend instead of just an afternoon.

A view of the lake from the shore at Ajijic.


Crazy American.

Typical week

This week I did average American things, such as going to bars, the park with Leo and the mall. Yesterday I spent some the day just hanging out with some Mexicans at their house. Other than the music being a little different and the conversation mostly in Spanish (as well as a cold tamale from a street vendor) it was pretty familiar. If you buy the larger glass bottles of beer, you have to turn in the old bottles to buy new ones, apparently, as the beer companies reuse them.

I knew that the Mexican minimum wage was about three bucks a day, but even if you work in, for example, a book store, you make only about 7.50 dollars a day. Not an hour. Where many things are not all that much cheaper than in the U.S., it is surprising that anyone is able to make it on that wage. The cost of living overall, though, is much higher in the United States, where we have plenty of poor people as well.

Chapultepec

I am at a cafe on Chapultepec. I've been in this area several times already as there is lots to do and it reminds me of a blend between the Central West End and South Grand, Mexican style. It's also close to downtown. I tried to find a taco stand near here to eat lunch but no one serves chicken, so I had to resort to a real restaurant where I'll actually spend over five dollars :( If I had to live in Guadalajara for the long haul, it would be here.


Views from my table at the cafe onto Chapultepec Street.



This is another place I've driven through often, Glorieta (Roundabout) Minerva. Here is a picture. I've sat at the Starbucks here a few times too, and this one is two stories, with the second story "open air." It's nice.

Saturday - busy.

I played "gotcha" (it is really called that in Spanish) - which is paintball. I'd never played before, and it was interesting. I imagine its nearly identical to paintball in the U.S. I have two welts, one on each hand, today. After that I went with Genaro to the Chivas game (one of the professional soccer teams here) and, of course, they won. It was so much like a baseball game and so different. You can sit anywhere, the most expensive ticket was less than 30 bucks, and it was not glamorous at all, meaning, the Cardinals' stadium is clean, with obviously a lot of money and attention put into the whole process of buying tickets, entry, seating, graphics, technology, etc. At Chivas, the exact opposite. Graffiti, concrete seating, prices for the night's game handwritten on a piece of computer paper. It was so low key it is hard to believe this is one of the most successful and popular teams in Mexico. After that, I went to a bar in downtown called Nacional, and it was very "hipster." I'd already befriended Kalett, who was "DJing" that night, and it was a good time. It's been really easy to jump right in here in Guadalajara, minus the language frustrations that I continue to have on a daily basis (though I learn AND retain a few words/phrases every day).

Downtown Tlaquepaque... with photos!

Today I decided to check out downtown Tlaquepaque. I technically live in the Municipio (County) of Tlaquepaque but I'm not very close to downtown, which is how I took the "long" way to get there and got turned around coming back. But hey, when you price gasoline in liters, it doesn't seem like I am spending that much getting around.

Downtown is beautiful. I saw several stores that, when I am ready to buy nice things for myself and others before I leave, I will be shopping there first. It is a very art-oriented town, and there was a ceramic museum as well as many artists who have galleries. This was the first time I saw Americans, and I saw a lot of them. Kind of disappointing :).

Going out tonight - excited to check out "The Rusty Trombone."

Blurry picture, but this is typical traffic in Guadalajara. This was this evening.




Calle Independencia

Street musicians on Calle Independencia

Some of the art galleries in downtown.

I think this was associated with San Pedro Church. I couldn't go inside; there was a funeral occuring at the time.

A side view of San Pedro.

I liked these doors.

San Pedro Church. I read it took about 150 years to complete.

The plaza in downtown Tlaquepaque.

Downtown Guadalajara

Yesterday my friend Diego showed me downtown. It is very old and very interesting. Again, I forgot my camera, but I am sure I'll be back many times before I leave. He showed me a Mexican sushi place, where two drinks and a roll of sushi was about $5. It was funny; the soy sauce had onions, cilantro and jalapenos in it but the sushi was practically identical to what you'd find in the U.S. (not quite as good). We also had something off the street that looked and tasted like a potato, but really white and soft, and with the lime juice and the hot sauce, very spicy. There are many, many plazas downtown, some with fountains, one with a "tianguis" (the flea market), but Diego said it was a "mega" tianguis, because it was three stories tall. As I got in my car, it started to pour down rain, for maybe 20 minutes. It surprised me because this is the dry season but it didn't last long.

I got to see the whole spectrum

Yesterday I got to see, as Pako put it, both sides of Mexico. First I went with "mama" to a tiangius (tee -ahn - gees). I think that's a close enough spelling. It's basically a flea market, on the weekends, and for 33 pesos (about $2.50) I got a big bag of oranges, a pineapple and grapes. Then Pako and I went to Calle Obregon, which is a street that is like a flea market as well, but permanent. They sell knock-offs of stuff, clothes, hats, sunglasses, toys... pretty much everything. It's on the "wrong side" of town apparently but all walks of life go there to shop. Then I went to a birthday party. It was extremely fancy. There was even a Norteno band - that type of music you hear in Mexican restaurants that has a lot of horns, accordians, drums, etc.? It is actually popular in Mexico (I always thought until the first time I came to Mexico that it was only for the ambiance of restuarants in the U.S.) and it appeared to be a big deal that this band was there performing. I really wish I had brought my camera - it was unlike any party I've seen in the United States.

My first weekend

Wednesday I went with Genaro, a new Mexican friend, to this fancy outdoor mall called Andares. I've been told that's the one thing that is so much more expensive in Mexico than in the U.S. - clothes. So I didn't buy anything. Then we went to a lounge called Salmon that was mostly outdoors and very laid back. I was excited to order a Michelada but it had too much spice to it. Then last night I went out with Pako, Fernando's brother to what I would call a not-too-sporty sports bar called Kome y Toma. It's a chain. The michelada there was much better. Yesterday I joined the gym and it ended up being $150 for six months, but still, it's not bad at all. The machines are in pounds instead of kilograms but they are older, without labels, and a little confusing so it will take some getting used to.

The weather is amazing.

It is perfect. That's one aspect of St. Louis I am not missing one bit. I can do anything I want outside and it is gorgeous.

I returned to Wal-Mart so I am now a hypocrite. But I tried to go to a Mexican Supermarket and it didn't have anything I was used to eating or that I thought I could make, so I went back to Wal-mart and got what I needed. I went to the gym near my house and for six months it comes to 1375 pesos... only a hundred bucks! And this place looks like a country club. I haven't signed up yet because they require something with my address on it (though my name won't be on it) and my passport.

I also explored today; I left my comfort zone and tried to find some places that I looked up last night (bars, downtown, other things to do) and though I didn't find anything in particular I know where the neighborhood's at now and I got home without any problems. I also finally found the "casa de cambio" in the mall next to the Wal-Mart so I could exchange my American money for pesos. I had my car washed in the mall parking lot yesterday - I should have taken a picture. These guys have these ... carts ... and they roll them around to customers asking if they want their cars washed while they shop. I did it, and it wasn't as good as if I had done it, and apparently I got "taken," but it was only like 4 bucks, so it is what it is.

Getting used to it

I drove yesterday, though I stayed relatively close to the house. It's already getting easier. Yesterday Fernando's mom showed me a place that served Tacos al Pastor, but with chicken, and for 5 of them plus a soda it was 30 pesos (about $2.30). If I can eat this cheaply everyday I'm going to do well here. She and her son and daughter in law took me to the movies. It's just like it is in the U.S. and the film was in English with Spanish subtitles. Today I am going to attempt to get a Mexican cell phone, join a gym near the house and get enough pesos to pay my first month's rent.

This is the house at which I'm staying. I should have taken the picture after moving the trash cans (it was trash day).

In Guadalajara

Yesterday was long. I set my alarm for 8:00am, but my clock was set PM instead of AM so setting my alarm did no good. I woke up around 8:30, checked out by 9, but didn't get out of Saltillo til about 10 because I got lost. I filled up my car for the first time in Mexico in a small town somewhere off of Highway 54. Pemex is the nationalized gas station in Mexico, and I was told to be cautious about being charged too much, but it went fine. I stopped outside of Villa de Cos to eat at a taco stand off the highway - see pictures. The day before I was waved through two military checkpoints, but yesterday I was stopped by some very unfriendly soldiers. Still, it took just a few minutes and they weren't intrusive. They just checked my belongings. I think having Leo in the backseat helped. The trip to Guadalajara took longer than I expected. Highway 54 is a "libre" highway, so no tolls, but it took longer since I was traveling through towns and villages and through the mountains. However, the drive was interesting, varied and pretty, and I am glad I didn't take the toll roads. I feel like I really got to see Mexico. Speed limits are crazy. It will go from 110 km/hr to 80 km/hr to 60 km/hr to 40 km/hr with no warning. And the TOPES.... (speedbumps)... are everywhere. On the highway, in towns, in every conceivable place you can put a speedbump. I am glad I'm driving the Explorer since it is tall and four wheel drive, otherwise, I might have lost a bumper or exhaust pipe yesterday. Now when I arrived in Guadlajara, I got very close to where I was supposed to be, but my directions failed to tell me which exit to take, so I ended up very far from the house at which I am staying and I had to be "retrieved" and brought to the house. I didn't get there til after 8pm. Driving in this city is nerve wracking and confusing. I hope I get the hang of it because I really want to explore Guadalajara.

Today I went to Wal-Mart (!!!) which if you know me you know I hate, but it is very close to the house I am staying at and Fernando's mother was doing me a favor by showing me around (and I've already been difficult, telling her I don't eat red meat and that I want 2% milk, whole grain bread, etc etc) so I didn't say "I don't like Wal-Mart" while I was at it. Again, I hope I get the hang of this, because I really want to make my own meals and I think I can afford to eat pretty much whatever I want. However, I've started simply. I bought turkey hot dogs, cereal and milk, and I'll catch dinner at a taco stand or something until I am acclimated to everything here. Now, I'm at a Starbucks because I knew it would have internet. The catch is, in Mexico, you actually have to buy something to use the internet (the code is on the receipt). I'm going to hold on to the code and use it as long as I can, then I'll probably move on to an internet cafe which would likely be much cheaper than buying a frappuccino mocha whatever.

The two women ran the taco stand and the gentleman was a customer. When I asked to take a photo, he grabbed his machete to show it off. It had an inscription on it, but I don't know what it said.


This is a typical taco (or in this case, gordita) stand off the highway. This is where I had lunch.

Yes. This is why I came.

The concert I came across in the main plaza downtown. Roughly translated: The people of Saltillo have value... demonstrate it!


The cathedral in downtown Saltillo.


The little place I ate at for dinner.

Typical: a snapshot of a street in Saltillo.

Hotel Premier - where I am staying in Saltillo.

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Another image right before driving through a minor mountain range outside Monterrey. It was pretty.

More driving through Nuevo Leon/Coahuila.

And more of the scenery.

This is a picture I took while traveling in the state of Nuevo Leon, Mexico

What a day. Woke up early and got to the border before lunchtime. It was easy. I stumbled through it, but it didn't take much and the guys at customs were helpful. No one asked about Leo or wanted to see his papers. Immediately after customs, the military "searched" my car but it was all over in less an 60 seconds. There were a few bumps in the road. Yesterday I gave the guy at Wendy's in Louisiana a $10 and I didn't get change; I lost the face wash I bought in Alabama; I had to buy a phone card because what I was given doesn't work here; and I left Leo's food/water bowls in San Antonio. But I have the travel ones I got as a going away gift. I told myself things like these would come up, and if this is the worst of it, good. Once I got on the highway, the fog lifted, the sun came out and it warmed up considerably. Mid 80's by this afternoon and it was fantastic. I went through a second customs about 20 minutes down the road from the border but all they wanted was to see the visa. I have already driven the cuota versus the libre highways (toll versus free). The toll is a little expensive... I think I paid a total of 350 or so pesos in tolls. It is worth it though. The toll roads were great and the speed limit is the equivalent of about 75 MPH. The libre highway is not for the faint of heart. So's driving in Saltillo (and probably any other Mexican city). I bypassed Monterrey and came into Saltillo this afternoon in the state of Coahuila. Driving in, everything was new, nice and architecturally interesting as well as accessible by foot, as everything is compact and dense as it should be (cities of the United States...take note). As I got closer to downtown, the buildings weren't as nice, new or shiny but still interesting and very diverse. I got a room at a hotel in el centro (downtown). It's like $25... half the price and twice as nice as the place in San Antonio. After that, I explored el centro. This is why I love Mexico. So many people milling around, everything is walkable and there are a million different things going on at once. I saw a wedding, a city-sponsored concert and people going about their business. I ate lunch earlier in a pretty nondescript place but dinner was in a hole in the wall in el centro of Saltillo that was actually very clean and presentable inside, albeit very small. I'm probably going to check out the "nightlife" tonight - then I'm headed to Guadalajara tomorrow. I definitely have been speaking like someone who needs to practice their Spanish, but my conversation with the guy at the hotel front desk went seamlessly, so there's hope for me after all.



Oxxo... the QuikTrip/Walgreens/7-Eleven of Mexico.

I took this picture in Mississippi/Louisiana going over one of many bayous.

This is how Leo travels most of the time. He'll lay down for a few minutes, but he always sits back up and leans against the back of the seat if we turn even the slightest bit.

Kristin and I the morning I left their place in Montgomery.

Thus far...

I got to Montgomery yesterday and hung out with Daniel til Kristin came home from work. Then we went out to eat at a local joint and came home and played Wii ... then bedtime. Good thing though, because we were on the road for twelve hours today. I'm now in San Antonio. I'm staying in a nondescript motel; we negotiated the price but I think I'm still overpaying. Ate at Casa Rio on the San Antonio Riverwalk. It was a little brisk outside but worth it. The food is really good too. Going to go to bed soon... exhausted. Crossing the border tomorrow.