The end.

I woke up early this morning and got out of Memphis before 7:30am. I took U.S. 64 all the way home. It was construction off an on the whole way, but other than being frustrating, it was an easy drive. I made it home by 11:30am. Then I took a nap!

I have been talking about going to Mexico for years, then I finally did it, and now it is already over. It feels very anti-climatic. This experience was totally worth it - "vale la pena." I feel sad that it is over, but now I've got to focus on moving and graduate school, and it was hard to do that in another country. I hope I get to return soon.

I drove a total of 2,028 miles home, approximately 900 of those in Mexico.

Memphis

I originally was going to drive to Little Rock today but the sun was out, I wasn't tired yet and there was gas in the car so Leo and I drove to Memphis. I drove out into the suburbs to use my gift card for Steak and Shake, then backtracked a few miles to find an affordable hotel. This place is only eight dollars more than the Austin place but it is so much nicer. Clean! Hot water! Easier to sneak Leo in this time! Hopefully their continental breakfast is better than the one in Austin - it was stale Cherrios.

The drive today wasn't as exciting to me since it was all U.S. driving. But in Waco, Texas I got off the interstate because 1) I wanted to avoid Dallas at all costs 2) it was shorter distance-wise. It was nice, because it was almost all four lane highway with the same speed limits as the interstate, plus I got to drive through a few little towns that were interesting to see. I stopped for lunch in Athens, Texas where a guy on a bicycle yelled, "How's it going?" as I walked Leo outside. I got back on the interstate in Texarkana.

I don't have any perspective on the Mexico trip yet, but I am so glad I did it. I already miss it and everyone I left there. I've come back older and wiser!

Mexico to Austin

I left the hotel at 7:30 this morning. I realized later that not only did I pay in cash, in advance; but no one asked me for my name or information. Suspicious. The air conditioning was so loud and by 5:30 am, when it woke me up, I realized it wasn't working either. The weather in San Luis Potosi was pleasant though; cool and overcast. The town was the most un-Mexican I've seen. I think the same person who planned Huntsville, Alabama planned SLP. Anyways, I didn't have to check out. I just got in my car and was on my way. However, the hotel here in Austin is twice as much, asked for my license, and is ghetto. No hot water, no internet *inside* the room... and it doesn't look as clean. I can't say anything, though, because I snuck Leo in.

Speaking of Leo, I was concerned crossing the border would be more challenging than it was entering Mexico. It could not have been quicker. No one cared I had expired tags. No one asked to see Leo's papers. I never even got out of the car. I just turned in my vehicle permit, showed my passport, answered some questions and I was on my way. Driving to the border was easy, too. The highways were smoother and less congested, though the tolls overall ate up about 100 bucks. Before I reached Matehuala in SLP state, I passed a sign commemorating the Tropic of Cancer; apparently I passed it at that point. Luckily yesterday before I began driving my cruise control miraculously began working again, though now it is tempermental and it takes some maneuvering to get it to work (accelerate, brake, on, set? brake, off, on, set?). As I was driving down the last roads in Mexico that I had traveled in February, it really felt just like yesterday that I had been on them to start the trip. It is cliche, but it went by in the blink of an eye and I almost can't believe I'm no longer there.

Austin seems like a cute town. A little contrived and clean, but the downtown nonetheless was nice and I had a great dinner at a 6th St. restaurant that served - guess - Mexican food, though more Tex Mex than traditional Mexican. I began to order in Spanish and caught myself before I finished the first word. Weird. I'm going to map my route for tomorrow, tonight.

A picture in Coahuila state.


I believe this was while I was still in San Luis Potosi state.


And this one too. Though this might have been Nuevo Leon state.

First day of The End.

I was up and ready to go by 8:30. The owner of the apartment was supposed to come between 8:30 and 9:00 to get the keys and give me my deposit. He showed up at 10 til 10:00. I should have: 1) told him 7:30 2) realized that this is Mexico. Therefore, 9:00 does not mean 9:00. So, I got a late start. I back-tracked back to Guadalajara where I had a late lunch with Juan Carlos at La Nacional (just like old times). Then I went east and north a different route than I had taken to get to Guadalajara in February. The tolls are expensive, and sometimes the roads don't seem much better than the "libre" highways, but I figured for time's and safety's sake to just take the toll roads. I got to San Luis Potosi before dark and found a hotel for about 20 bucks. I thought it was strange that they asked for cash only and wanted it paid in advance. Hmmm. There was a nicer hotel a few miles away I stopped at but they wouldn't allow Leo unless he slept in the car. Yeah, right. The hotel doesn't have internet so I walked down to Burger King (blah) for dinner because they have it for free. As I was driving towards town, I kept seeing signs for SLP saying "17 km" then "20km" then "25 km." It was like the city was getting farther away than closer. I know I made it to San Luis Potosi but I didn't make it to it's downtown, which is probably why I'm stuck in the hotel I am in next to a mall with a Burger King.

The drive today was beautiful. I have said it before but I love driving through Mexico. The photos I took from the car don't do what I saw justice. I am really glad I decided to drive instead of fly. If I leave early tomorrow I should make it across the border around 3:30 (very rough estimate).

First of two pictures of the volcanic rock between Vallarta and Guadalajara.


Second picture.


Some of the landscape of central/eastern Jalisco state.


I saw this huge bull in the distance so when I got close enough I took a picture; in eastern Jalisco.


Driving near the Jalisco/Zacatecas/San Luis Potosi state lines.


Ditto.


Driving through San Luis Potosi.


Another photo, near sunset.

Vet Pt. 2

So even though he didn't get a thorough examination, Leo got all of his shots and is ready to go. Total cost: $60 give or take. Hope we don't have any problems at the border.

Vet

I took Leo to the veterinarian a few doors down and said I needed his papers to cross the border. All the receptionist did was fill out a standardized sheet, charge me 180 pesos, and weigh Leo. So much for making sure he is healthy enough to cross. That being said, she said that he needs to be up to date with his vaccinations, and he had them a little over a year ago, so we're going back at 4:00 to see the veterinarian for his shots.

Final Days

I took Kelly to the airport this afternoon. She made sure to make her last night here memorable by getting in the swimming pool at the bar we were at. Now that she's gone it is real to me that I am also leaving in a few days. I made an omelet for dinner with what I have left in the refrigerator: pineapple, onion, garlic, cheese and egg. It isn't wonderful but it will do. That means I can allow myself to eat out for dinner tomorrow and Monday, but I do have cereal for breakfasts and peanut butter and jelly for lunches.

Mayto

Kelly came on Sunday and we've been low key except for yesterday evening when we went out. Today, I suggested we go to Mayto. I found a website called hidden Puerto Vallarta beaches, and Mayto stuck out because it seemed so private as well as being a tortoise sanctuary. The drive to Mayto was beautiful if not interesting. It took over 1.5 hours to get there, because nearly 20 miles of the trip was a dirt road. We didn't get photos of the journey, but I took a lot of photos at the beach. We never got lost, but we had some pretty specific directions from the website. It could be very easy to get lost, and that may be why we were the only white people we saw once we got outside of Puerto Vallarta. How refreshing! This possibly was my favorite day in Mexico. When we arrived, we were THE. ONLY. PEOPLE. Other than two Mexican surfers with their three dogs (they did not stay long), we were literally the only two people on this beach all day long. It was amazing. We ate at a restaurant on the beach; seafood of course. It was really affordable. Then we explored the beach and I kept saying, "Kelly, look at this!" The water was so clear and the beach was really steep so the waves were violent, incredible and dramatic. What a great beach day. When people say they love the beach, I can finally identify, as long as it is a beach like the one at Mayto.

A view of the beach.


Ducks that the restaurant owner had to shoo when we arrived.


This is the turtle center. I read that during mating season they rescue eggs on the beach so that they survive until hatching. Apparently this isn't mating season.


View of the restaurant.


Where our food was prepared.


A view of a hill on the beach.


A view of Hotel/Restaurant Mayto (the other restaurant on the beach).


Literally miles of beach.


More of the beach.


View of Mayto Restaurant.


We walked to this outcrop of rock and explored the creatures who call it home.


This is a snapshot of the 20+ miles of dirt road we traveled. It was rough. This was one of the few stretches of straight, curveless "road."


Kelly at the restaurant on the beach.


Kelly the first night she was here in Vallarta.


Kelly again.


Kelly on the hill above my place in Vallarta.


Kelly and I.


Video of Mayto.

Next visitor

Leia came on Wednesday and left today, a day earlier since Landon was sick at home and not getting better. She and I went out while she was here and visited Sayulita as well. The big news was me spilling scalding hot olive oil on myself and melting the skin off of my finger. It hurt. I still have no skin but since Leia's a nurse she made sure I didn't do anything to further damage it. I've kept it covered and I hope it heals sooner than later.

Leia and I before burning my finger the next day.


Martin and Enrique at the bar.


The three of us in front of the sexy Jesus painting.


Leia and I.

Dentist

I got my haircut today and my teeth cleaned. Both were cheaper than they would have been in the states. The haircut was a success. The teeth.....

It was the most terrifying cleaning I have ever had. I bled so much. Then, he tells me, someone who has never had a cavity in his life, that I have ELEVEN cavities. The cost to repair them was waaaay beyond my budget. I talked to mom and she said he couldn't know for sure since he didn't even take x-rays. At least my teeth are clean, and still in my head.

Sayulita

I decided to go to Sayulita today. It is a little town about 30 miles north of Puerto Vallarta. It's known for surfing and is much more laid back than Vallarta. I absolutely loved it. I'm coming back at least once before I leave. The town itself is small and easy to navigate. I parked and walked two blocks to the beach. Even though there were a lot of Americans, this place is more "Mexican" and less touristy than Puerto Vallarta. The waves are a lot calmer and the little bay is shallow. It is easier to relax out in the water rather than fight the waves coming in every ten seconds. There were gold flakes in the sand, and it made the water shimmer. The town and the beach were much cleaner than in Vallarta, and though there were vendors selling things on the beach, not once was I asked if I was interested in buying anything. What a change! Politely rejecting the vendors on the beach in Vallarta becomes exhausting after an hour or so.

Main plaza in Sayulita.


A view of a street in Sayulita.


Another street.


View of the beach.


Beach at Sayulita.


Another view.


View of the bay.

Marisma

There are lots of street vendors near my place, but they all serve beef. I am tired of making all of my own meals so I searched the internet to see if anyone had discussed Puerto Vallarta street vendors. Someone actually had a website with maps and ratings of all street vendors and I chose to try Marisma, about five blocks north of me in a neighborhood I hadn't yet explored. I got shrimp finger tacos and they were amazing. Two of those with a drink was less than four dollars. I will be going back often before I leave. However, they close at 5pm, so it's strictly a lunch place for me (since Mexicans usually eat lunch around 3pm, this makes sense, but I'd like to go for dinner too if it was open longer).

Day Tour

Josh and Sarah decided they wanted to do a day tour on Monday. We started by getting on the boat and traveling to Los Arcos, a rock formation just off the coast where we snorkeled and saw fish, jellyfish, eels, etc. Then we traveled to a beach accessible only by boat to walk 30 minutes to a waterfall in Quimixto. We had lunch there and traveled back to Vallarta. Of course, complimentary drinks were available while we were on the boat. They both went home today and I'm back to my routine here at the apartment.

This was a seagull who was flying next to the boat. It was eating cheetos from peoples' hands.


This is one of the rocks that are "Los Arcos." We were able to swim inside to see the wildlife under the water.

More Fun

We went to the beach Saturday for most of the afternoon and had drinks and lunch under the umbrella. It was actually a lot less busy than Friday. Then we went out to eat at a place on the beach. Vallarta has this "restaurant week" where participating restauarants give you a package deal for a fixed price. We all got the same entree, which was seafood. Then we went out to the bars. We stopped at the first one to see the friends I've made who work there. Then we went to another one to see a show and watch Josh attempt to dance (just kidding, Josh, you dance fine!) and finally to one more where we decided at 3:00 and some change in the morning that we were ready to call it a night.

At the restaurant.


Sarah and I at the restaurant.


Sarah and Josh.


The three of us at the beach.


Again!


Sarah and I staring into the sun. She still managed to smile though.


Sarah and Josh at the only bar we went to on Friday night. Everyone was still a little jet lagged so we called it a night early.

Visitors!

Josh is here! He got in yesterday afternoon. We went out to eat when he got in, and then off to a bar where my friends work for some drinks. Josh was thirsty, so we went to another place afterwards. We'll just say he had a good time. Today was all about the beach. Another interesting day. Sarah will be flying in in a few hours, so we'll catch dinner before picking her up and hitting the town.

Josh and I at the beach.


Josh at dinner last night.